A Travellerspoint blog

Airport and hospital

Luiz said that it would be a good idea to go to the airport and get my international vaccine card so that I could prove I had my yellow fever shot if I needed to in the future. I agreed so I attempted to go there in the morning.

The bus to get there was crazy, it drove past the airport and didn't really stop there. I went to the end of the line and the bus turned around. On the way back it dropped me off about a kilometre from the actual airport. I was bewildered. Only one bus in the whole city drops you off at the actual airport and I wasn't on it.

That took a good two hours, so when I arrived the office for the vaccine card was closed for lunch. When it opened at 1 I got my card with no problems. It's a big festival right now so I watched some dancers from the tourism ministry greet people getting off the plane.

At this point my ears and throat were hurting a lot. I didn't know how to find a doctor so I asked someone at the vaccine clinic I went to yesterday. Unfortunately he sent me to the emergency room. This was not an emergency but I didn't realize it wasn't a normal clinic until waiting for about an hour. By then I had already invested all this time so I had to stay. After maybe two hours I saw the doctor and she gave me four prescriptions of which I filled two of them when I got home. They were basically for the same thing I had before, plus mouthwash, nasal spray and strong aspirin. I was more than a little disappointed. I know I'll be back at another clinic later, asking for something else.

The whole day was shot, I grabbed some local gluey stew called cuxa and met Luiz at home. I did my laundry at his friend's house and it promptly rained all over them. :(

Hospital

Hospital


Places with yellow fever

Places with yellow fever


Me vs cuxa

Me vs cuxa

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Yellow fever vaccine hunt

When I arrived in São Luis it was about 5 am and no one knew how to get to Luiz, my host's, house by bus. They kept telling me to take a taxi but i knew it was far and not really worth it because it was only for dropping my bag off anyway.

So I took a shower in the rodoviaria and swear to god, hopped on the first bus I saw and said I NEED VACCINE in Portuguese and the bus driver nodded and told me to get on.

Maybe a half hour later I was in front of some clinic downtown. I saw the sign for vaccines and waited for it to open. At 8 an angry woman popped her head out and told me the vaccine clinic is closed I have to go to the hospital next door.

Oh my! It was so hot and so busy. I waited behind some ladies with babies who all wanted vaccines, I recognized them from the last clinic. A very nice nurse gave me a paper and told me to come back at 10 and that I didn't have to pay anything. Excuse me what? You don't. Have. To pay. What. I couldn't believe it! These shots are sooooo expensive at home. What amazing healthcare! They are rewarding me for being lazy and stupid... I'm sorry Brazil. In addition to this, when i came back, they threw in the flu vaccine for fun, on the other arm. Sure thing buds.

And just like that, I had found my vaccine before lunch! After only hatching this plan yesterday! How efficient! After that I had to wait 10 days before going to the Amazon. That suited me just fine.

I found out I was just down the street from the historical district so I wandered down there into the main church and then it was time for lunch. I wanted to celebrate with a fancy meal at the culinary schools restaurant (SENAC) and it was delicious. The meat was dry but there was a cheesy piano player and amazing desserts.

Soon after, Luiz messaged me and said he was going home so I could go home too. I hopped on a bus and he met me on his bike as I was walking to his house.

He had to go back to school later for drum band practice and so I bought some sandwiches for us and took a nap.

When he got home I woke up and we ate the sandwiches and went to bed. Sounds boring but I was still sick.

Medical clinic!

Medical clinic!


I got it!

I got it!


Igreja do se

Igreja do se


Igreja do se

Igreja do se


Museum of sacred art

Museum of sacred art


restaurante SENAC

restaurante SENAC

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Changing the plans a bit

At the hospital the doctor reminded me about the yellow fever vaccine. I was in such a hurry to leave Curitiba and get to the north that I forgot all about it. :(

So I decided to head to the nearest capital city as soon as possible. That's São Luis. I had my couchsurfing host there already so I hoped he could find me a place to do it. The problem though is that it takes 10 days to become effective. I'm sick with the strange infection anyway so I'll just take it easy for these days somewhere before I head into the jungle.

This will mean my trip will take longer and I'm not sure if I'll make it back in time to go around with Franciele. But, it's all my fault. So I just deal with it as it comes.

In the morning I had an awkward breakfast with the Germans and I said goodbye to them as they left on their dune buggy tour. Yeah it would've been way too hard to go yesterday :P

Whatever.

I went by myself the rest of the way. I took a pickup truck down the bumpy road to Jijoca and waited for what seemed like an eternity for the next bus to come.

When I found myself in Camocim, all the stress and gaudiness of jericoacoara melted away. I was back in the village Brazil. That's the Brazil I will remember more than the beaches and the annoying Germans and snobby French backpackers hovering around.

I switched buses again, but before that I ran down to the market and picked up some pastries and apples for lunch. I snoozed in and out of consciousness the whole way to São Luis.

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Dune buggy day trip

We had a very nice breakfast and I was all ready to go to the meeting place for the day trips to the dunes. Suddenly my German friends backed out. They wanted to go tomorrow.

So, I had about 10 minutes to find a group to go with. I was very lucky I found a lady named rose who was traveling with her son and his girlfriend. They had one spot in their buggy. Out of breath from running I asked them if they would let me come with them. They talked about it and said yes. I had another option to go on a pickup truck with a bunch of other people for half the price but this seemed much better and they were very friendly.

We stopped at some dunes, a small lagoon and a very large one which is a private club. The water was so cool and refreshing, we stayed here for two hours.

Then it was time for lunch and our driver took us to a nice spot on the beach. We had lots of fish and relaxed under umbrellas.

We drove home by the beach and i tried to plan my next stop. It was next to impossible, no one had any real information. I figured I'd just go there in the morning.

I went out to see capoeira again but I couldn't find it. Then I went to see the sunset at the famous lookout point but I missed it. I found my German friends but I think they didn't want to see me anymore. They weren't that happy to see me. We wandered around looking at buggy trips for them to take the next day, then they wanted more information at the bus station about getting to lencois park. I thought I'd go with them and buy my ticket too, but they abandoned me as soon as they got whatever information they needed. Seriously? I waited for you to look at all the stupid tours and you can't wait five minutes for me to buy a bus ticket? Whatever I was glad they didn't come with me after all.

After that my ear was bugging me so I went to the hospital and the doctor gave me some drops. Hopefully they will work.

Dunes

Dunes


Dunes

Dunes


Dunes

Dunes


Lagoon

Lagoon


Lagoon

Lagoon


Dunes

Dunes


Dunes

Dunes


Alchymist club

Alchymist club


Fancy

Fancy


Lagoon

Lagoon


Lunch beach

Lunch beach


Beach for lunch

Beach for lunch


Lagoa azul

Lagoa azul


Bull

Bull


Bulls friend

Bulls friend


I missed the famous sunset

I missed the famous sunset


Missed it

Missed it


Chorizo

Chorizo

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

More buses to jericoacoara

In the early morning we were in Fortaleza and had to get on two more buses until we got to jericoacara.

We met some more German people on that bus and I planned to travel along the way with a lady named CU, short for something like Cecilia I never heard her full name. Michael would be taking a plane to Uruguay in a few days so it would be really nice to have another travel pal.

They transferred us onto a special dune bus and drove all across the beach depositing us in a quite awful place I would say. Yes of course the beach is beautiful but it's very dry there are no trees, and some song that sounds like daft punk plays over and over and over. They are clearly catering to douchebags from the UK getting wasted.

The first thing we did was go down to the beach to watch the sunset. This was enjoyable despite the constant thumping bass. I tried to get into the mood and ordered a beer but it wasn't happening. I still didn't feel well after my fever from yesterday.

So I went back and you know how everything looks different in the dark? Yeah that. I was also wearing my prescription sunglasses and couldn't see very well. I thought there was a human coming towards me. When I got closer I saw that it was something else. "Are you a cow?" And it snorted back yes and came barrelling right towards me. I screamed and ran through the prickly thicket onto a bigger road with my heart pounding in my throat. Somehow I found our hostel. So scary.

Dune bus

Dune bus


Jericoacoara beach

Jericoacoara beach


Jericoacoara beach

Jericoacoara beach


Jericoacoara beach

Jericoacoara beach


Jericoacoara beach

Jericoacoara beach

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Roundabout way to Fortaleza

I left rosivaldo in the morning. He wanted to go camping with me but I told him I didn't want to go. I was tired of his ideas about women and his general flirty manner.

Sometimes he said things that were inappropriate. He doesn't believe women have personal autonomy and he also has a bit of a temper. Keeping in mind we all make mistakes and say awkward things, when we're couchsurfing we should try to be extra careful about it.

The first thing that bothered me is that he told me he uses prostitutes. I do not judge, but this is not appropriate conversation for couchsurfing.

Later he expressed to me that he thought I was very sexy and he told me that I shouldn't trust him with alcohol because he might lose control and touch my body in a non consensual way.

I tried to laugh these things off, but it got worse.

Another time he told me that he thinks most women don't know what they want and men need to tell them what to do. To me this is very offensive. He told me I must have babies even though I don't want to. He criticized other lifestyle choices that I make as well, and I think this is wrong.

These were the three times I felt very uncomfortable. Eventually I became very angry and told him I would leave Olinda early. I woke up to at least four texts he sent during the night, begging for forgiveness and yadda yadda yadda.

This morning, I wanted to do the dishes for his very hospitable and friendly mother. He grabbed my wrist and yelled at me not to do them and told me that I should just pack and go. At this point I left the dishes in the sink, afraid for my safety and left the house immediately.

I took the bus and metro all the way back to the bus station and tried to buy a ticket to Fortaleza leaving as soon as possible. There were none until 7 pm. I'd have to go to the next state over and try in Natal. That bus left at 2 pm.

With a massive headache from the stress of the morning, and no wifi, (gasp) I camped out on the floor and just waited as patiently as possible.

I got to natal at about 6 pm and it was much cleaner and more pleasant than Recife. I bought another ticket for one of the last buses out to Fortaleza and had to wait again. It didn't matter because it was still better than being in Recife. I had developed a fever and took some Tylenol for it.

I saw a nice German man with a big bag so I went over and we spoke English for a while. We were both going to the same place so we decided to stick together.

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Recife and the beach

I woke up to the sound of someone's phone ringing early in the morning but it was ok because rosivaldo's mom had an amazing breakfast of fruit and eggs with fresh bread for us. I sat around for many hours with a coffee and custard apples and watermelon. Wow.

Then we went downtown to explore the churches and synagogue. It was the first synagogue in any of the Americas, built in the mid 1500s. We wandered around in the old part of town just looking at buildings and in general melting in the heat.

After lunch we relaxed in a park because we had to wait for the "golden chapel" to open. Another fantastic display of colonial wealth, adorned with gold leaf and Puritan type paintings depicting martyrs and other atrocious violence. The convent next door had many old Portuguese tiles depicting stories from genesis which were fun to interpret.

After that we headed down to the beach at bom viagem, where I bought a big beer but had to drink it all myself. The beach is the most dangerous in the world for shark attacks so we didn't go in.

First synagogue in the Americas

First synagogue in the Americas


More puppets

More puppets


Puppets

Puppets


I want to build this wall

I want to build this wall


Recife port

Recife port


Tree growing out of a building

Tree growing out of a building


Praca republica

Praca republica


Capela dourado

Capela dourado


Capella dourado

Capella dourado


Convent tiles

Convent tiles


Boa viagem

Boa viagem

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Nice village adventure with rosivaldo

I found myself in Recife at 4:30 am before the metro was running. I lumbered out of the bus only to find my backpack was covered in vomit. I have no idea who did this or how it happened, also I didn't know why they didn't even try to tell me or clean it up. I had a lot of time before the metro started so I washed it off as best as possible in the small bathroom sink. I almost vomited myself in the process.

The metro plonked me down in the city and I took another bus out to olinda to find my host rosivaldo. His mom made me breakfast and we managed to do a little tour of the historic part all before I took a nap, which I really needed. We saw lots of old stuff and the architecture was the traditional Portuguese style. I've seen these types of buildings before so the most interesting museum to me was the puppet museum. They make these huge fibreglass people every year for carnaval and parade them around the city. It's really a unique thing to olinda.

We went back home for a nap and when I woke up rosivaldo 's mom had dinner for me and I washed my clothes in the washing machine.

We talked until quite late about random things and then I fell asleep to the sound of about a million mosquitoes.

Olinda

Olinda


Ossuary

Ossuary


Ossuary

Ossuary


Jesus puppet

Jesus puppet


Mary puppets

Mary puppets


Church in olinda

Church in olinda


Regional museum of olinda

Regional museum of olinda


Colourful houses

Colourful houses


Puppets

Puppets


Puppets

Puppets


Puppets

Puppets


Puppets

Puppets


Nossa senhora church

Nossa senhora church


Church

Church

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Another travel day

I woke up and Larissa and Marcelo were leaving. They left me to sleep a while and when I woke up I went for another swim, took a long shower then made myself some breakfast with food I bought at the mall.

Soon after that it was time to go. I packed everything up and headed out into the chaos that is the Salvador bus station once again.

I caught my bus right on time and snoozed all the way to Recife.

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Rainy day in salvador

I woke up to the sound of Marcelo jumping out of bed muttering somehing in Portuguese about the rain. I asked him if everything was ok but then fell asleep again before I heard the answer. It was about to be a massive rainy day.

When he woke up he kindly made me eggs toast and coffee, then dropped me off downtown on his way to work.

It was still pouring rain but I had my raincoat so I was pretty OK. I went in between museums all day getting wet and then drying again. There were a bunch of churches, a museum about the African heritage of Salvador and my favourite was the museum of sacred art outside of the main historic core. It was overloaded with sculptures of every saint and there were an insane amount of effigies of Jesus and Mary. All packed into a spacious former monastery.

I waked back and took the elevator to the lower part of town because the guards at the museum warned me of robbers if I tried to walk there. At the tourist market there's a couple restaurants and I ordered acaraje. It was supposed to be stuffed with something but it wasn't I had to put the sauce on myself. I guess I'll have to get a real one on the street later.

The bus took a while to get to bom fim church, at least 6 km outside the city. People tie colourful ribbons on the fence and pray to jesus to make them well again. I got there just in time to hear some chants and visit the museum upstairs. It has plastic silver and gold body parts that prove how many people have been healed after they prayed here. The church is somehow also associated with a candomble God named oxala so it's very special for them.

I didn't stay very long because it wasn't as exciting as the guidebook suggested. I took the bus back to the same elevator and then bought a real acaraje from the street vendor. It wasn't that great. I tried another one from the touristy shack once I got back up the elevator but it was also not so great. I guess the verdict is acaraje is not that good no matter where you get it. I dunno what the deal is, the bread part is dry and the shrimp they put on it is smelly and gross.

I went back to the capoeira school that I was at in the morning because they were doing a show at night. It was really fun to watch. I met some people from Miami and they had dinner while I waited for Marcelo and Larissa to show up.

There was a big rainstorm again and then the power went out in the park we were in. I eventually found Marcelo and Larissa in a bar near the park. We said goodbye to the miamians and then a random guy started talking to me and eventually he followed us to the next place.

We went to dance samba there and he came right along. Another woman who no one knew also joined us. Later we realized she was a prostitute. We didn't know if that first guy was her pimp or not.

The samba was awesome, I'm sorry I didn't get a video of it. The whole room was full of sweaty brazilians singing along to the classic tunes.

Anyway we left both of the strangers and got home at 2 am.

Palacio

Palacio


Museum de misericordia

Museum de misericordia


Museum de misericordia

Museum de misericordia


Bahia lady

Bahia lady


Museum of African Brazilian stuff

Museum of African Brazilian stuff


Museum of African Brazilian stuff

Museum of African Brazilian stuff


Fountain

Fountain


Square

Square


Beautiful sculpture

Beautiful sculpture


Pelourinho

Pelourinho


Sacred art museum

Sacred art museum


Acaraje

Acaraje


Acaraje

Acaraje


Igreja do bom fim

Igreja do bom fim


Acaraje

Acaraje


Plastic body parts

Plastic body parts


Ribbons at igreja do bom fim

Ribbons at igreja do bom fim


He might have been a pimp

He might have been a pimp


Larissa

Larissa

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Long bus to Salvador

I accidentally bought a ticket in the handicapped section and ended up beside this large lady who was constantly sticking her butt in my seat and generally being annoying. Sending and receiving constant voice messages like a walkie talkie. I moved as soon as I could and that wasn't until 3 am.

Our bus careened around mountainsides until it came to a semi desert and that's when we wound up in Salvador. I got off the bus to a cacophony of noise, it really is a different world up here. I had to climb over two rickety pedestrian bridges to get to Marcello's place. It was only about 500 metres away but it felt like way more than that.

Marcelo had a key waiting for me in his fancy business flat. It even had a pool on the roof. I enjoyed that but it was too shady and there wasn't any sun in the afternoon anymore, so I didn't stay long.

I went to the mall and set up a nice sushi dinner for us, complete with sake and everything. We drank the whole bottle and listened to some crazy cello rock music that he likes and went to bed.

On the roof

On the roof


Pool

Pool


Sushi on the roof

Sushi on the roof

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Rio in one day

I woke up to take the first train up to the Corcovado at 9 am. It was nice but slightly underwhelming, I'd say. For such a world renowned attraction, really when it comes down to it, it's just some cement on a hill. The view of the city is really nice but not worth pushing through the crowds to see it. I can only imagine what it's like in summer. Goodness gracious.

Though I was quite underwhelmed, I still had the same feeling I had in Sydney. I never thought in my life that I would find myself in Rio. My memories of that light up globe toy I had as a child always come back to me when I find myself in such notable places as this one. Every day, I amaze myself with this lifestyle and I'm so grateful for the opportunities I find.

After that I thought it would be easier to go to the Oscar Niemeyer designed museum in Niteroi. (yeah another one) and the ferry ride over was nice, but it was a long walk to the museum and when I got there it was closed.

I was kind of disappointed so I tried to find another museum that seemed similar. The institute something something (IMS) was really interesting. The modernist house used to be owned by a big banker and now it's a museum and snooty cafe (20 reais for a drink snooty)

It was insanely difficult to find my way there because no one knew what it was and the bus my book told me to take no longer existed. It took me two hours to get there from downtown I think, total. For reference its #5 not #170...

On the way back I had more bolinhos and took a walk along the lake beside the Corcovado. I watched kids skateboarding and people dancing at street parties. I was too tired to participate but it was nice to be in a city that was so alive for once.

I brought matteus a few beers but I don't think he really liked them, so I ended up drinking most everything. I fell asleep at midnight.

Train up

Train up


Christo redentor

Christo redentor


View from the top

View from the top


Francieles chocolate

Francieles chocolate


Niteroi

Niteroi


Art museum

Art museum


Art museum

Art museum


Art museum

Art museum


Niteroi

Niteroi


Niteroi

Niteroi


Niteroi

Niteroi


Niteroi

Niteroi


Ferry to rio

Ferry to rio


On the ferry

On the ferry


Rio

Rio


Institute

Institute


Institute

Institute


Institute

Institute


Institute

Institute


Institute

Institute


Me vs croquette

Me vs croquette


On the lake at night

On the lake at night

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Night bus to Rio

So I got all my stuff together for a month and left the next day for Rio. It was similar to packing for my month long romp around China last summer. The bag was a little heavier than last time because I brought extra shoes I think.

So I was sitting beside a really large man on the bus and I wasn't fitting in the seat very well. The man got up and left later, and I had the seat to myself. He gave me an extra blanket so I was warm all night. I drifted in and out of sleep and surprisingly found myself well rested when I arrived at the station.

I emailed matteus my host and he told me he would be at work until 5, so that's no problem. I went to see a famous church in the Gloria neighbourhood, then I went to ipanema beach. People were setting up for a wedding or something and there wasn't much to see. I bought some fruit at the big Friday market and a cold beer. I took a little nap on the sand and was constantly accosted by someone selling something. Not too fun, so I headed to copacabana where it got worse.

Soon it was time to meet matteus. I found his place no problem in the Tijuca neighbourhood. I helped him with his English homework and went to sleep.

In my blankets

In my blankets


Church

Church


Nice tiles

Nice tiles


On the subway

On the subway


Food market

Food market


Francieles chocolate

Francieles chocolate


Ipanema

Ipanema


Ipanema

Ipanema


Copacabana

Copacabana


Copacabana

Copacabana


Plan

Plan


Plan

Plan


Plan

Plan


Plan

Plan

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Taking care of pagu

I stayed at Francieles house for a few days packing and repacking but while I was there I was walking Pagu around the city. He/she??? Has a lot of friends.

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

Cat

This is the cat that adopted me. She is docile and very happy. I wish I could find her a new home but I have to leave her.

Cat

Cat

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Brazil Comments (0)

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