A Travellerspoint blog

September 2009

Time to leave Iqaluit

Today was the day to leave Iqaluit. I can't say I was happy, but I can't say I was sad either. I explored a very obscure part of Canada that not many people get to see. I consider myself among the very lucky and feel very privileged to have been able to do so.

While it's exciting to find a place that's so far away from what anybody would call a vacation destination, it also gets boring pretty quickly. That was part of the draw for me, and I'm glad that I experienced it. I have a newfound appreciation for anyone living in "fly-in" communities. It was my first time to go to one, and I'm not sure when I will ever get the chance to do that again.

Before getting on the airplane home, I decided that it is quite important to get a picture of me by the "Welcome to Iqaluit" sign. I had tried to get one on the day that I went to Sylvia Grinnell, but it was too windy and my camera kept blowing over, ha!

Today the wind was nice and calm and so I did that, then checked my bags in at the airport a few hours early, (once again, I saw Hey Rosetta at the airport, what a small town this is!) so that I could find more of Brian's sled dogs and walk back downtown to give Heather her key at work. I couldn't tell which dogs were Brian's, so I tried to take a picture of them all. They were very loud and barking at me nonstop, so I stayed far enough away so that I felt safe.

I said goodbye to Heather at the Government of Canada building and offered her my couch anytime she had a layover in Ottawa. I live near the airport, so it would work out perfectly if indeed she did need to stay for a night sometime in the future.

Still, I was early for my flight. I sat down and found a book, the Tao of Physics, in a big "take a book leave a book" pile at the airport. I thought Mr. David would appreciate that souvenir of the north, so I kept it. Across the aisle, I notice a young lady reading an Irvine Welsh book, boy aren't people cultured up here or what? I start talking to her about her job at summer camp and how excited we are to be warm again in Ottawa. Her name is Robin and she is going home to Kingston after a summer full of playing with kids.

The wine on the plane home is inexplicably free (for a 2.5 hour flight!? This my friends, is not Air Canada) So I get to drink a bunch of that and chew on some bison goulash on the way home. I sleep for a bit and David meets me at the airport with news that he finally got that government grant for school. Yay. (He likes the book, but already has a newer copy of it at home, go figure)

Welcome to Iqaluit

Welcome to Iqaluit


Dogs

Dogs


Dogs

Dogs


More dogs

More dogs


Doggies

Doggies


Doggy doggy

Doggy doggy


Wash your hands!

Wash your hands!


My airplane home

My airplane home


Bison goulash on the menu!

Bison goulash on the menu!


Me vs. gristly bison

Me vs. gristly bison

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

THE NORTHERN LIGHTS!

I had an appointment to get a tour of the legislative assembly this morning, so I walked down there promptly in the morning. It was finally a beautiful day, not too cold and not too windy. I relished the sunlight today, the day before I was supposed to leave.

After the quick little tour of all things symbolic and related to the Inuit, like sealskin chairs and a building designed like a sled, I pondered on what to do for the rest of the day.

I asked the tour guide if I should go out on a boat.

"Oh no, nobody is out on the river today, it's too wavy."

Ok, so that's out. What about an ATV ride?

"Yes, you could do that, I will call the rental office and see how much it costs for you."

OK... thanks.

She goes away and comes back, it will cost $125 for the day. I guess that's not too bad. I decide to call Heather and see if she would 1) either let me borrow the ATV and take it into the wilderness (not likely) or 2) take me out into the wilderness after work (more likely).

It turns out that yes, she would be interested in joyriding her neighbour's ATV tonight. Okeedoke, see you at 5 ish Heather!

I decide to go and buy a parka and that wine glass for the lady whose Iqaluit glass I broke a few months ago. I find the wine glass easily, since there really is only one "gift store" proper here. There is a florist, but it doesn't have the kind of things I'm looking for. Anyway, that is cool, now I hope that Samantha will be happy with that.

There is one store where they sell homemade parkas. The daughter of an MLA in Nunavut is the owner and I hem and haw over which one to buy. Should I spend a lot or a little? I decide to spend a little, and buy a bright purple one with pink fur around the hood.

I decide that NO ONE else could pull this jacket off but me, therefore, it was made with me in mind, so I am really the rightful owner of this jacket.

Then, I try and find more things to do downtown, but can't. I decide to go back and nap until Heather is off work. Ohhhhhhh vacations. So lovely to nap in the sunlight streaming through Heather's window like a cat in the winter.

Also, probably a little like a cat, I snack on a little bit of whale meat that Heather has generously left for me in the freezer. Weird!

Soon Heather comes back and we pick up Siku for another adventure out into the wilderness.

I learn how to drive the ATV and Heather holds onto Siku in the back, we take it out to the end of the Road to Nowhere and teach Siku how to follow along. (He has never been on the ATV before). We walk up one ridge, only to be tempted by the next, which reveals another ridge, identical to the one before. We imagine what it would be like to be Inuit back in the day, constantly walking through the same terrain, almost like a Flintstones cartoon... over and over again, the same background. It would be enough to make anyone go a little crazy. Crazy enough to brave the insanely harsh winter up here, I say.

Soon, the sun is going down and we are getting hungry. I had received a tip to go to the Nova Inn for some fantastic food. This is certainly where I find it.

We take the Honda down to the hotel, lugging along our giant helmets into the fancy restaurant. It seems that everyone is staring, but I think that's only because it's rare to see two women riding around on an ATV together. I think it's rare just to see women around here actually...

Anyway, for $50, (a bargain if I do say so myself!) We get fancy potato skin appetizer, caribou steak that cause "tiny explosions of flavour in my mouth" with the best scalloped potatoes I ever had in my life and a dessert of strawberry/kiwi frozen mousse stuff.

We make friends with the waiter, Chris, who has just moved here from Toronto. Can you say culture shock?

On our way home, I look up in the sky and it is FILLED with green and grey colour. The northern lights! On my last night in Iqaluit, the sky is clear enough to see it!

It's not more colourful than in Yellowknife, but it's a LOT more monstrous. It just fills up the entire sky with dancing light. It lasts for about 30 or 45 minutes and just abruptly as it began it stops. I am too late for a video, unfortunately.

Me in the Speaker's chair

Me in the Speaker's chair


Nunavut Legislative Assembly

Nunavut Legislative Assembly


Frozen whale meat

Frozen whale meat


Tundra

Tundra


Tundra

Tundra


Heather, Siku and tundra

Heather, Siku and tundra


Tundra

Tundra


Tundra

Tundra


Caribou skull

Caribou skull


Caribou skull

Caribou skull


Tundra

Tundra


Siku and tundra

Siku and tundra


The sunlight is bright in Iqaluit

The sunlight is bright in Iqaluit


Me and Siku on a rock

Me and Siku on a rock


Me and Siku on a rock

Me and Siku on a rock


Me and Siku on a rock

Me and Siku on a rock


Me vs. tundra

Me vs. tundra


Me vs. tundra

Me vs. tundra


Me vs. tundra

Me vs. tundra


You are going down, tundra!

You are going down, tundra!


The sun and the tundra

The sun and the tundra


Siku eating a bone

Siku eating a bone


Siku eating a bone

Siku eating a bone


Caribou skull again

Caribou skull again


Caribou steaks

Caribou steaks


Me vs. caribou

Me vs. caribou


Chris and Heather

Chris and Heather


Heather vs. icy mousse

Heather vs. icy mousse

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

Barbecue at Sylvia Grinnell Park

This morning was just as windy as ever.

I woke up and tried to call Heather to go downtown on the ATV. Bad news, the phone doesn't work. I have to go over to her place, and find her before she leaves! I go over, and the ATV is still there, so I knock on the door, but she doesn't answer.

The neighbours across the street let me use the phone, I call, she doesn't answer, so I assume she has left for the day.

I have to walk all the way across town and also into the wilderness. Into the brutal wind the whole way. Pieces of sand that feel like glass, whip across my cheeks as the wind gusts. Street signs battered by the elements flap rhythmically as I walk by.

I finally get closer, the road turns to earth and I keep going in the direction of Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park. Today is the day that there is a barbecue put on by PSAC (Public Service Alliance of Canada). I am leaning into the wind with all my weight, unable to move. Suddenly behind me I hear,

"Need a ride?!" and a nice hippy looking man leans out of the door of a battered up jeep. There are two young women wedged in the front seat, and a bicycle in the back.

"You look so comical out there!" I jump in the back with the bike, my legs don't quite fit but he manages to close the door on me.

"Do you all know each other?"

"Nope, I just picked these two up on the way."

"Hilarious."

The three of them talk French together and then we get out and go to the barbecue. A bunch of people are there already snacking on bannock, donuts, hamburgers and giant sausages.

We get a ticket to a little draw from a really happy and loud guy named Alex, the PSAC representative.

We don't win anything, but we get a free touque and bandana to wear. Sweet.

The two Quebecois girls and I decide to hike down to the rapids and take some pictures. It's lovely. The most beautiful thing I've seen all week. The water is perfectly bluey-greeny and the wind is incredibly strong. The rocks are wet and I'm afraid of falling in, so I stay back from the edge as do Michelle and Rose.

On the way back, the wind is at our back, so it is pushing us along. Luckily, we get another ride all the way home to the Road to Nowhere. Michelle makes us some chai tea and we decide to go for some more hikes. I want to see the strange structures on the horizon. I am convinced that they are spaceship landing/launch pads.

We get there, and then take some pictures with Inukshuks. You can't leave Nunavut without that now can you?

Rose and I lay on our backs watching the clouds go by for a while. I get cold, and suggest we go and see if Heather is home. Rose and Michelle think that's a good idea, so we all go over and find Heather when she is about to go out for her walk with Siku.

We follow her into the tundra and play with the dog for a bit.

After that, we say goodbye to Rose and Michelle, then bring stuff for dinner over to Heather's house, eat more arctic char and some frozen pizza and finally update the blog!

We wind down by watching Good Night, and Good Luck ... I'm pretty sure I saw it before.

Welcome to Iqaluit

Welcome to Iqaluit


Barbecue at Sylvia Grinnell Park

Barbecue at Sylvia Grinnell Park


Me and Rose demonstrating the wind

Me and Rose demonstrating the wind


The rapids

The rapids


Me vs. the rapids

Me vs. the rapids


River

River


Me at Sylvia Grinnell sign

Me at Sylvia Grinnell sign


Landscape

Landscape


Spaceship landing pad

Spaceship landing pad


Mysterious structure

Mysterious structure


Some lake

Some lake


Rose and Michelle

Rose and Michelle


Me vs. inukshuk

Me vs. inukshuk


Me vs. inukshuk

Me vs. inukshuk


Rocks

Rocks


Into the sun

Into the sun


Incredibly unbelievable sunset

Incredibly unbelievable sunset

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

The weather is crazy here

I had planned to go and see a church service in Inuktitut today, at the Anglican church. Heather tells me the cathedral burned down. That's a shame, because it was shaped like an igloo, and I heard it was quite the spectacle. Now they hold their mass in the church hall next door. I hear an Inuktitut version of Jesus Loves me and the homily is spoken in English, then translated into Inuktitut. Pretty interesting. They still do communion the old way, with the wine in the cup, and everyone drinking from the same one. I'm a little apprehensive, because I noticed a bunch of people hacking and coughing during the service. I hope I don't get swine flu. When the service ends, it's raining pretty hard. I decide that the baseball tournament is probably called off, so I talk to the minister for a little bit, he's on his way out to Prince Rupert for a while, he says. I tell him it's better in Iqaluit. He doesn't believe me, he misses trees too much. He tries to find out whether the baseball game is cancelled, but can't. So, I decide that I'd rather not sit around in the drizzle watching a baseball game that I could probably catch tomorrow anyway. So, back I go to the North Mart, and buy some things for dinner, on the way home. I know that Heather is volunteering at the Humane Society, so I just stay in the warm dryness of her apartment until she is done. I end up calling my mom and Dave and then go back out into the storm to try and find out if there is a prayer meeting happening at the Pentecostal church. I must've written it down wrong, or the meeting was cancelled because of the weather. I go back home after stopping over at Arctic Ventures for some cheap souvenirs. I end up watching a few movies, including The Reader. After which point, I call Dave again and beg him to read me a bedtime story while I cower in bed, listening to the wind howling outside, shaking the house, hoping that it doesn't collapse on top of me while I sleep.

Burned down church

Burned down church


Anglican church

Anglican church


Me vs. pilot biscuits

Me vs. pilot biscuits


I was bored, playing with the macro

I was bored, playing with the macro

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

We go to Apex, we see Hey Rosetta

I slept in again today, and Amy (the owner of Brian's dog, Aruak) called me to see if I was in today. Heather and I could go over around 2 p.m. and see him. Heather came and picked me up soon after, and we headed over. Aruak is now called Amruat? which means wolf in Inuktitut. Amy is taking good care of him now, and she went on and on about all the different expeditions Aruak had been on in the past. He's now semi-retired and goes out with Amy on her skis for fun every now and again. He has made good friends with Clifford, Amy's other dog. They are pretty much inseperable. When Clifford goes inside, Aruak howls and begs to be let in too. He's not allowed in, but he's satisfied when Clifford is let back out to be with him. After that, we go back to get Siku and out for a hike to Apex, a sort of suburb of Iqaluit. It's shorter to walk to through the hills, so we do that, while picking berries on the way. We find big blueberries, crowberries, cranberries and bearberries, the latter of which are bitter and almost inedible. Siku loves it out in the hills, he runs around saying hi to random people who also happen to be picking berries today. We check out the old Hudson's Bay Company buildings, the oldest buildings in town, built around 1940 something. We keep walking around, tiring out Siku, and getting into little fights with all of the dogs around town. There's absolutely nothing going on, so we head back to get ready for the Hey Rosetta show at 8. We snack on some more arctic char and then make our way to the show. The opening singer plays some horrendous Johnny Cash covers, and then an Inuit elder does a presentation about a special vessel that burns whale/seal oil and then the main band comes on. They play for about 1.5 hours, and it's a good time. They do some jams with Inuit throat singers and drum players, so that's a good time too. I took too many pictures, and then I go home.

On the ATV

On the ATV


On the ATV to Amy's house

On the ATV to Amy's house


Clifford

Clifford


Amaruq and Amy

Amaruq and Amy


Amaruq and Heather

Amaruq and Heather


Amaruq and Amy

Amaruq and Amy


Amaruq and Clifford

Amaruq and Clifford


Amy and Amaruq

Amy and Amaruq


Heather and skyline

Heather and skyline


Apex landscape

Apex landscape


Me vs. crowberry

Me vs. crowberry


Crowberries

Crowberries


Apex beach

Apex beach


Apex beach

Apex beach


Apex beach

Apex beach


Heather on Apex beach

Heather on Apex beach


Apex beach

Apex beach


Hudson's Bay Company in Apex

Hudson's Bay Company in Apex


Apex's "Big red boat"

Apex's "Big red boat"


Heather on Apex beach

Heather on Apex beach


Apex beach

Apex beach


The cool rock in Apex

The cool rock in Apex


Kid with giant cable

Kid with giant cable


Kids waiting for Hey Rosetta

Kids waiting for Hey Rosetta


Me and Heather waiting for Hey Rosetta

Me and Heather waiting for Hey Rosetta


Opening band

Opening band


Qulliq demonstration

Qulliq demonstration


Qulliq demo

Qulliq demo


Jamming with the drummers

Jamming with the drummers


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


More jamming with the drummers

More jamming with the drummers


Drummers

Drummers


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Hey Rosetta

Hey Rosetta


Drummers

Drummers

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

We ate ARCTIC CHAR!

I majorly slept in today. When I woke up, I called the internet company and figured out that I had no network card in my laptop, and therefore, no internet. Heather doesn't have wireless and the cable internet won't work without my network card. Ugh. Anyway, I wanted to get a tour of the legislature, because that's the other thing in Iqaluit that you're supposed to do when you come here. I walked past the college, and admired the Inuktitut graffiti, as well as a few sculptures that are around. By the time I got to the legislature, I had missed the 1:30 tour. And then I learned that it's booked until Tuesday at 10:30. OK fine. I'll come back then I guess. Now what? Well, I guess I'll go check out some more art. I sat down to look at the map, when a bunch of out of breath youths came running in, followed by more, and then more, and still more. They were competing in a scavenger hunt of some kind. It was amusing. Some of them left, laughing hysterially, and hopped into taxis to get to the next station. Where's the fun in that?! I took off wandering again. For the life of me, I couldn't find the other art gallery, I walk completely in the wrong direction to the end of town and then turn around and come right back. I actually find the street the gallery is supposed to be on, but it's nowhere to be found. Well, maybe it is there, but there's no sign. I decide that if they wanted my business, they'd put up a better sign. So, off I go to the museum I was at yesterday. I had been fantasizing about a really cute fisherman print that I had seen the day before for $100. I decided it should be mine. The man at the store told me the artist only made four of them, and that she was a student at Arctic College. Sounds awesome to me. I'd rather buy something from here, than the sketchy people that walk up to you in restaurants trying to sell you a soap carving. *eyeroll* They don't take plastic at this museum, so I went back to North Mart, bought some food for dinner (arctic char tonight, I mean it!) and got some money. On the way back, I picked up the print, happy with my accomplishment for the day.

Heather had to come and pick up some of her stuff to move into her friend Carrie's house. Carrie's dog, Siku, is very high maintenance, so dog sitting also involves house sitting. She packed up her stuff and we also packed up the arctic char and accompaniments for dinner. A short ATV ride down the street, and we were there, ready to tackle the crazy fish. Heather seemed to know what she was doing, so I just watched her take out the kidneys and cut the head and tail off of the fish. The way that she moved it sometimes, looked like it was alive still. I screamed, many many times. We put the fish in the oven with some carrots, dill, lemon and celery, then took Siku for a walk out in the wilderness. Just five minutes into the hills, and it felt like I was on another planet! Literally, it seemed like I was bouncing on the moon (because of the soft soft moss-covered ground) or exploring mars (because of the vegetation that makes the rocks look bright red) When we got back, the fish was almost done, so we made some garlic bread and mashed potatoes and chowed down. After dinner, Heather walked me back home and we ate our chocolate mousse desserts that I had forgotten to bring over.

Camera crew at Arctic College

Camera crew at Arctic College


Cool sculpture at Arctic College

Cool sculpture at Arctic College


Inuit Graffiti

Inuit Graffiti


Nunavut legislative assembly

Nunavut legislative assembly


Scavenger hunters

Scavenger hunters


Arctic cotton

Arctic cotton


Random canvas tent in the 'burbs

Random canvas tent in the 'burbs


Aqsarniit Middle School

Aqsarniit Middle School


Iqaluit landscape

Iqaluit landscape


Frobisher Bay

Frobisher Bay


Typical suburban house in Iqaluit

Typical suburban house in Iqaluit


Guy making a chair out of stone

Guy making a chair out of stone


Flower car

Flower car


Stray dog

Stray dog


Heather and me on the ATV

Heather and me on the ATV


Heather loading the ATV

Heather loading the ATV


ATV licence plate

ATV licence plate


Me in the back of the ATV

Me in the back of the ATV


Heather vs. arctic char

Heather vs. arctic char


Fish head!

Fish head!


Me vs. arctic char

Me vs. arctic char


Couches that everyone has

Couches that everyone has

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

Flying to Iqaluit with Hey Rosetta

Dave took me to the airport early this morning to see me off. While checking in, we notice Hey Rosetta, a really great band from Newfoundland in front of us in line.

"Watch out, ever notice how many bands die in plane crashes?" Dave whispers.

"Uhhh, thanks a lot!"

"No no, you'll be fine," and he laughs at the instant paranoia he has caused to manifest in my subconscious.

I had no idea what kind of plane I'd be getting into today on my two hour and change flight to Canada's Great White North.

Turns out it wasn't as small as I'd been expecting. In fact it was huge! It had really high ceilings, surprisingly, and it sat six seats across.

The service was incredible. Can you believe we actually got breakfast and two coffees (one with Baileys in it!) throughout the course of the flight? That's a short fight for so much awesome service! These northern airlines know how to pamper a poor victim of monopolization from the South.

I sat beside a crazy guy named Jerry. He's been all over the world, setting up healing centres, but his favourite place is India. He was on his way to Iqaluit to hold a "Playfair" event. It's some kind of activity day that helps people learn how to play again. And yes, he gets paid (well!) to do it.

Anyway, the discussion lasted the duration of the trip, and I gave him my card, in the hopes that I could tag along on one of his expeditions into the wilderness.

Giant plane inside

Giant plane inside


Canadian North plane in Ottawa

Canadian North plane in Ottawa


My breakfast

My breakfast


Crazy Jerry

Crazy Jerry

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)

Wandering around Iqaluit

Itinerary:

Sept. 4: See Brian's dogs Sept. 5: Rent an ATV Sept. 6: Spa? Eat arctic char, caribou and/or muskox Sept. 7: Shop for art Sept. 9: Leave

The first thing you see when you land in Iqaluit is a giant yellow structure, apparently the airport... It's pretty comical, but it alludes to the architecture in the rest of the city. It seems to all be made of modular structures put together like a puzzle to make one giant superstructure. Very frequently, they are painted with very bright, rainbow colours.

Heather's condo is no exception. The bright blue building beckons to you from downtown, making it easy not to get lost. Thankfully for me. Ha.

Heather met me at the airport, and kindly brought my luggage up to her place on her lunch break. She lives just off of the famous "Road to Nowhere".

"So what are your plans for the day?"

"Oh, I don't know, I have this sort of sketchy list here..."

"Well we can make Arctic char tonight!"

Eating Arctic char, caribou and musk ox, are on my list of must-dos.

"Sweet, I guess I'll go buy something and bring it back for dinner?"

"Yeah, check the prices before you promise anything..."

"Haha, I'm sure it's fine."

"What else?"

So I ramble off the other things I want to do, including meeting one of Brian's dogs. I heard there was one near the graveyard named Aruat, so that should be interesting.

"I guess I'll go climb that mountain and then roam around the city."

Heather agrees that's a good idea, and she goes back to work.

I have two people to call. Tavis, another Couchsurfer, who couldn't host me but wanted to go on some adventures, and Amy, the owner of Aruat.

Tavis says he'll call me back later tonight, but Amy's not there.

So I set out to explore Iqaluit on foot.

I climb up the mossy hill just in front of Heather's doorstep. The sky is threatening rain, but I ignore it. Someone put a makeshift cross at the top, vaguely reminding me of Montreal.

I look around and try to decipher the landscape. Where is the "downtown"? I can't tell at all. Heather told me just to go straight to the water, and I should find it, so that's what I do.

Everything is otherworldly in this place! The Inuktitut language reminds me of Thai, completely indecipherable to my untrained eyes. Thank God, everyone speaks English too. I wander around in search of something interesting to do.

Outside of Arctic College, there is a cute sculpture park that I found. Whimsical would be the best way to describe it. I hope to stumble across the tourism office, but no luck. I give up and decide to go buy something for dinner. I'm also curious to check out some of these crazy produce and food prices I've heard so much about. The price that takes the cake for me, is a $40 box of chocolate covered almonds! I mean, I know chocolate is great and everything, but how can you justify spending $40 on some of it? I opt for the $2.50 box of chocolate covered raisins and later find out that they are completely unedible! I guess you really get what you pay for around here.

I get some "reduced rack" produce for a little higher than normal price. A few tomatoes and plums for $10. Not TOO bad.

I ask the cashier: "So I heard there was a beach around here."

She looks at me with laughing eyes and a big smile, "What KIND of beach?"

"Oh you know, with sand and stuff."

"Ohhhhhhhhhhkay, just go behind the store and keep walking..."

"Right! Thanks!"

The tide is out and there are all kinds of boats stuck in the dock. I put my stuff down for a bit and go out for some exploring. The seabed is muddy and the consistency is that of white glue. Predictably, this doesn't drain water too well, so there are puddles the size of small lakes everywhere, I hop and skip and jump around them, finally getting to my destination, Frobisher Bay. I splash my hands around in it, just to say I did it, and I pull them out about to turn blue. Holy CRAP the water's freezing.

I dry off and head back, catching a glimpse of what I THINK is the back of the tourism office. It's smurf blue and oddly shaped, that's gotta be it.

By now, it's drizzling rain. I really hadn't thought about what I might do if it really rained. I left the shell of my jacket at Heather's house. If there is anything like a downpour, I'm screwed! I get to the tourism office and art museum just in time for the downpour. Hanging out for a bit, I walk back to Heather's house, pretty exhausted and wait for her to get back home so we can cook some delicious dishes.

Heather didn't take the fish out of the freezer, so we opt for spaghetti instead. I cook some fresh sauce with the tomatoes I bought, and we chow down before going to meet Travis at the Storehouse Bar.

This is the place to go if you are looking for nightlife. You will find disheveled Inuit youth hanging around the front, smoking, and a bunch of lumberjack looking men drinking and eating various types of takeout while getting drunk together in a bar that is vaguely designed to look like a contrived wilderness lodge.

By the time we get there, Travis and his friend Jeremy are absolutely smashed. I ask them how much they had to drink:

"Only two beer," mumbles Jeremy.

"Oh, right... just curious," I say, skeptically.

Heather and I share a Keith's and talk about Jeremy and Travis' job as teachers at the local high school. They are not going to the Hey Rosetta show, because they will be out of town at a friend's cottage. They are getting there by boat, and I'm not invited... even though I try to invite myself.

Our conversation doesn't last very long. I was looking forward to seeing the Legion and the people who frequent that watering hole. Someone had told me this was the REAL place to go for the real night life.

Another bar for another night I guess.

Heather's house

Heather's house


The hill

The hill


Iqaluit airport

Iqaluit airport


The big hill

The big hill


Somebody's cross on the hill

Somebody's cross on the hill


Iqaluit from the hill

Iqaluit from the hill


On top

On top


Top of the hill

Top of the hill


A street in Iqaluit

A street in Iqaluit


Stop sign in Inuktitut: NUQARVIK

Stop sign in Inuktitut: NUQARVIK


Outside Arctic College

Outside Arctic College


Cool bird thing

Cool bird thing


EXPENSIVE ALMONDS

EXPENSIVE ALMONDS


On the beach

On the beach


The tide is out

The tide is out


Frobisher Bay beach

Frobisher Bay beach


Frobisher beach

Frobisher beach


The tide on Frobisher Bay is out

The tide on Frobisher Bay is out


A missing leg

A missing leg


Cool boat shot, Frobisher Bay

Cool boat shot, Frobisher Bay


The visitor centre, Iqaluit

The visitor centre, Iqaluit


The art museum

The art museum


Big raven

Big raven


The Road to Nowhere, going nowhere

The Road to Nowhere, going nowhere

Posted by baixing 17:00 Archived in Canada Comments (0)